Report from Russia

June 27 2004, Barnaul

Dear CCI friends,

While Russia's civil society development is being questioned from many sides in Moscow and the west, civil society development is going on under the nose of the politicos, analysts and journalists. Russian regional citizens don't seem to be phased by it all: Khordorkovsky's trial, state control of the three TV channels, and changes in national referendums. Remarkable mini-happenings like mushrooms-in-spring are occurring across Russia's regions far from Moscow. I'll concentrate on a tiny example in this report.

We left by train from Novosibirsk, capital of Siberia, last night at 11 pm and arrived in Barnaul at 4 am. Approaching the train station, it looked like a postcard in the dawn haze. The hundred-year-old stone structure sported a lively new paint job of rose-red with lots of white trim. Flowers were planted, trees were pruned, and there wasn't a scrap of trash in sight. Were they planning for visitors? Not quite, this apparently is an ordinary day in the life of Barnaul. Evidence is plentiful that the city now cares how it looks.

A hearty Rotarian, current president of Barnaul Rotary Club, Gennadi Malkov, met and delivered us to a local hotel built by three entrepreneurs. He explained that this city of 600,000 people is nearly 300 years old, was built for the silk trade three centuries ago, and doesn't have the natural resources so common to nearby regions. Consequently it has to depend on entrepreneurs developing small businesses. There was evidence of resurfaced buildings, first-floor dwellings converted to small businesses, fresh paint, new awnings, stone sidewalks and exterior renovations. In the distance the sterile Soviet apartment buildings rose up, and in the center new four-and-five story chic-looking apartment buildings were under construction.

Our first two-hour meeting was with five leaders of Barnaul's entrepreneurial community. I hope to have passed muster with this small group, despite the fact that one seemed to wince upon the mention of CCI's anti-corruption work. The Altai political situation is in flux with the last eight years having been hamstrung. It's reported by outsiders that the governor was of "old thinking," and reform was impossible. Entrepreneurs believe they have changed his mentality, at least toward small business. He ran for re-election this year convinced he would win and was beat by a celebrated Altai comedian living in Moscow. Some people are hopeful that the new governor will favor reforms.

The second two-hour meeting, this one with 40 entrepreneurs, was held at a fabulous new Altai Press Center where newspapers and publications are printed and press conferences are held. The young business people at the meeting were eager to hear about PEP, but interacted less about CCI's corruption-reduction program. I had been cautioned that this was a taboo topic in Barnaul. In small encounters, it was discussed openly.

The most fun and inspiring part of the day's meetings was attending the Barnaul Rotary Club! This is a dinner club with a ten-year history. A Canadian by the name of David Ker came to Siberia and fathered two Rotary Clubs in 1994. We were blessed to intersect with 75-year-old Dave saying farewell to his beloved Barnaul Rotarians. After shepherding this club for a decade, he promised his aging wife he would forego involvement and "go fishing." The pain of this decision was noted as one Russian Rotarian after another paid tribute to him. He stood before them like a quiet, benevolent saint. Years ago Dave established a scholarship program for Barnaul university-age students. Each year two winners spend a semester at a Canadian college, all expenses paid, thanks to Dave. This night his young Russian scholars encircled him with adoration. Their words and generosity toward him were marvelous to watch. Dave has just established a half-million dollar scholarship fund through Rotary International to continue this scholarship program in perpetuity. He sadly read his statement to the roomful of grateful and somber Rotarians, saying this would be his last trip to Barnaul, his farewell. He had come back to close the circle. It's impossible to describe the feeling that pervaded the room.

Barnaul Rotary Club now has 50 members, a Rotaract Club, and many young scholars. The club's membership has changed over the years they say. Today most of them are entrepreneurs. The most incredible Rotary spirit was present. Handshakes, hugs, smiles and energetic exchanges were going on in every corner. In the middle of the large dining room, a baby carriage with sleeping baby seemed to complete the picture. This was a friendly, homey place, a place of trust and love. The Rotary bell was sounded, the traditional large blue and gold Rotary banner hung behind the president. Activities and service projects were discussed. President Gennady kept the meeting in constant motion, with Rotarians eating during speakers' presentations. Near the end, a large silver champagne cooler was passed from person to person. Rotarians were invited to contribute based on some happy occurrence or a recent gratitude in their lives. They shared gratitude for everything from promotions, to births, to new business contracts. All applauded and congratulated as they shared their stories and deposited money. When the cooler arrived at the end of the long, long table, it was chocked full of rubles for service projects.

The ceremony for Dave was last. It was interesting to see this seasoned gentleman bid adieu to those he loved and nurtured for these many years. Presents and accolades, as only Russians can do, were lavished on him. Among them, Dave was given a large silk scarf with long fringe for his wife, which he immediately draped over his erect shoulders and wore proudly for the remainder of the meeting. His scholars stood around like disciples. What a powerful moment.

I left thinking had Dave never come to Barnaul, this whole piece of civil society, this little node of hope and integrity in Altai, wouldn't exist. This city is, and will be, indelibly marked by this one man's efforts to make a difference in a mostly unknown outpost far from Moscow and the clatter of politics.

Dave's "leave behind" (in USG terminology) is a cadre of leadership among the city's entrepreneurs, one of the most successful Rotary Clubs in Russia, and an independently funded youth scholarship program in perpetuity. What a model!

My best to you from Barnaul,

Sharon Tennison
President