Report from Russia: Rybinsk

June 14, 2006

Dear CCI friends,

A SUV arrived in Yaroslavl to transport us to Rybinsk where two PEP alumni in their 40s: 1) Alexander Ivanov, Commercial Director of manufacturing company, Fobos, PEP #206, 2001, Midland, Mt.Pleasant, and Saginaw, MI, sponsored by local Rotary clubs); and 2) Anatoly Chistiakov, General Director, Fobos, PEP #413 Engineering, Design & Light Mfg 2004, Alexandria, MN, sponsored by Rotary clubs also, were scheduled to meet us.

Far from major Russian highways sits Rybinsk, a 250,000 population town of former important reputation. It was the gateway for the Volga River on its route to St.Petersburg. The famed Repin painting of "The Volga Boatmen" was inspired from this location where hoards of men leashed leather belts around their bodies and pulled merchant boats up the river through the shallow waters surrounding this city. Recently Rybinsk was discovered by archeologists to have been a Viking town on the silk route from Persia. After sinking into ignominy during Soviet era, the city is now a fascinating contrast of 19th century buildings recently restored to original splendor and others on the same block in total disrepair. SO it is... as Russia digs its way out of the 20th century.

Alexander Ivanov met us at their company's headquarters when we arrived in Rybinsk. We were led into an old five-story pre-Revolutionary building which showed decades of neglect. Four flights of stairs up delivered us to an elegant set of modern glass doors. We entered Fobos - and a completely different world beyond the glass.

Alexander and Anatoly purchased the 4th and 5th floors of the weathered building a few years ago and renovated their property to "Euro Standard". Their corporate offices were a vision of white, light gray and royal blue - the color scheme evident even down to their product line which was on display. Airy glass dividers in circular design comfortably enclosed work spaces, a separate marketing department, accounting and executive offices. Some 30 professionals whisked around carrying out their day's work, paying little attention to visitors in their midst.

A dozen years ago Anatoly, a mechanical engineer had the dream to manufacture parts for oil and gas delivery from Russia's underground "black gold." He and Alexander, also an engineer, decided to join forces since both had worked in a state enterprise (at that time defunct) making similar equipment. They persuaded local officials to give them a broken down state structure (that had no water or heat) in return for renovating the place. In this way their manufacturing site was privatized - thus giving the new partners the basis for beginning their dream. Aging Soviet equipment was found, cannibalized and remade to new specifications. Gradually new equipment was purchased and the building made inhabitable year around.

Anatoly and Alexander have used only "reinvested revenues" for capital repairs. Today they are ready for investors, but hope to find foreign funds rather than be subsumed by a large Moscow corporation. They believe, perhaps rightly so, that they understand their industry and how to produce for it, better than any of the Moscow monopolies. Anatoly has remained the strategist for manufacturing and Alexander, a natural-born sales and marketing personality, has been the marketing face to the world. It's a winning combination.

Alexander was the first to find PEP, which he located on the Internet. Signing up sight unseen, he went to Dubna office and interviewed with Madina, PEP Director and our local partner. Both men shared stories of what the out-of-country PEP trainings did for them both business-wise and for their view on their future. Alexander took us to his office where his largest accomplishment is framed on his wall. It's the Rotary International letter awarding Rybinsk Rotary Club with their official Charter as a fully-participating club in Rotary International.

After visiting Fobos' corporate offices, we were taken to Rybinsk Rotary Club where Alexander is serving as President this year.

Rotary in Rybinsk: The Rotary idea was first brought back from the US by a young journalist who visited Tennessee years ago. Next, a daughter of a local family won a Rotary Scholarship, then finally by Alexander when he came back from his US PEP training. The club took form and three years ago was chartered. On June 7 about 15 members gathered in a Rybinsk restaurant renovated from a pre-revolutionary home. The restaurant features "bizness lunches" for 80 rubles (about $3). On the second floor we were ushered into Rotary's weekly meeting room. Lively red walls, elegant tableware and classical furniture lent a 19th century ambiance. After introduction to all Rotarians, their history and service projects, we were the featured program of the day. The spirit around the table was priceless. They obviously loved their Rotary club and each other.

After lunch, half of Rybinsk Rotarians accompanied us to their main service project: CANDLE by name; a temporary home for the most unfortunate of all, Rybinsk's street children. CANDLE residents come to them in many ways: some found by police, others turned in by neighbors if parents are addicts or drunks, some identified by schools, picked up in petty crime, or children sometimes just show up at CANDLE's door when they have no place else to go. They range from three to fifteen years.

We two Americans plus Madina weren't prepared for what we would see and came away just heartsick - but at the same time, heart warmed by the dedicated workers who labor with these children for a pittance of monthly pay. There were no complaints from these women and men, they only spoke of their dreams for their next stages of care giving to these blessed, all alone children.

I've never seen eyes so haunting as these kids'. All of them the same kind of painful glaze, if we could get eye contact. I wondered why this look hasn't been observed at our other CCI-supported orphanages, then realized that most orphans I've inteacted with here are fairly long-term residents of childrens' homes, while these little ones ranged from one day to three weeks off the streets. All were undersized for their ages except for three girls age 15 who are just passing through CANDLE to regular orphanages and hopefully to foster homes (a new innovation in Russia about which workers are very excited). Rybinsk Rotarians established a sewing-skills-room where the three girls were busily creating patchwork blankets on three new state-of-art sewing machines provided by Rotary.

Visiting a "wood shop" we tried to communicate with two boys, ages 14, who had the same haunting eyes. At first there was zero response. After continued quiet personal attention, one began to respond a bit. He looked like such a good kid, and was so dear I would have gladly brought him home if possible. His name is Misha. He looked so bright, but no doubt has had no breaks in life to develop him.

We were taken to one room where eight little beds were occupied by children that looked no more than 2 to 3 years old (though some were up to 5 years). It was nap time, they were awake, but just lying there passively. One little fellow next to the door was breathing so hard it was clear (as an old RN) that something was amiss. The caretaker explained the child was just diagnosed with severe heart problems and couldn't live much longer without surgery. With Rotary's help a plan was quickly being devised to get the child to Moscow for diagnosis and hopefully surgery - but of course money was still needed. We made small contributions toward the effort and watched the tenderness Rotarians took to all of these children, especially this little heart patient.

Near our time to leave CANDLE, the caretakers were curious what we thought about foster care, since America leads the way with this form of dealing with homeless children. Advantages and a few cautions were covered about which they seemed already knowledgeable. Madina, Pat and I left heavy hearted by the knowledge that even these youngest ones had just come from the streets, yet we were grateful to observe how the caretakers and the Rotarians are obviously working hand in hand.

As we approached the SUV to leave CANDLE, the two woodworking boys rushed out to say goodbye. We saw smiles for the first time, still the same eyes, but overriding the look was their genuine wish to communicate - Misha even used in a couple of English words.

If anyone on the e list wants to consider having a Misha to give a new life to, let me know. I did ascertain that he is adoptable. I could do all the investigative work to determine IQ, background, health, etc.

Alexander, our new Fobos and Rotary friend, bid us farewell and went back to his manufacturing site. His assistant Sergei drove us back to Yaroslavl. We began road-way discussion with him which revealed that he is Alexander's marketing assistant, that he has two children, one eight years another one year old. He and his wife are adopting a child from CANDLE, not because they can't have more natural children he mentioned, but because their hearts have been so burdened by these kids. He then commented that other Rotarians have begun adopting these children also. I questioned isn't this new for Russians who previously adopted only children of their own blood line. He admitted, yes, it is fairly new. We then asked why now? He puzzled a few moments and finally said with some uncertainty, "Well, maybe it's because we can afford to adopt for the first time... and we have more space in which to raise children now...."

Friends, there are huge changes going on all over Russia today. I see them particularly outside of Moscow (where I spend as little time as possible). These changes are occurring as public needs arise, as the "better off" assume responsibilities for those less well off, as civic clubs spring up like mushrooms, as Russians bring back ideas from their travels, as Russians become models for fellow Russians. This country and her ordinary citizens are coming out from under the closed system of the past, the tragic chaos and disorder of the 90s - and in the 2000s they have a new sense of self, a new responsibility to those less fortunate - and a new pride in Russia. It's wonderful to watch year by year.

And THIS Russia, which is happening in every city, town and rural area I've visited, never gets a whit of attention; hence, Russia is viewed with a mono-lens focused only on Kremlin, Putin, bureaucrats, corruption and the ills of a former communist state. What a pity and what short-sightedness results.

My best to you,

Sharon Tennison
President

FYI: FOBOS, another success story!

Alexander and Anatoly's business was built from scratch. We visited both corporate and manufacturing sites. The dilapidated old Soviet enterprise is now painted, what else.... the corporate colors of white and royal blue on the outside, the inside has a huge banner attached high for all to see. It says, WE STRIVE FOR PERFECTION. Young and older workers were dashing around stacks of pipes, cutting machines, welding operations, and huge pieces of steel equipment. Their chief finished product, an oil pipe valve which joins the pipes and directs flows, stood in the center of their manufacturing site, seemingly as a monument to their labors. It, too, is royal blue and metal. Standing about a meter tall, I inquire if this is the largest such product. The answer was, "No, not by any means" and then remarked that some of the pipes are a meter in diameter which means the valves must be considerably larger. Then I ask, "How difficult is it for people in other countries to insert a T in the line and drain off gas or oil." "It's difficult for non-professionals, but not so difficult for those who understand the equipment - this is part of our problem."

Anatoly and Alexander's product has been given the top stamp of approval from Russia's major oil companies (including Lukoil), although the company is quite small compared to most gas and oil enterprises. We made tentative plans to bring them to the Russian Economic Forum next April. Some 3000 investors and CEOs will meet to hear the latest on Russia's small and large businesses and to match make while there. Since I wasn't able to present at the Forum this year, I've been rescheduled for the next annual Forum. My plan is to invite as many PEP Fellows as are ready for investors or large loans. Oil and gas is on everyone's mind, so Anatoly and Alexander should be able to make some serious connections.

Thanks for all you do to keep the human and information flow coming and going in the PEP program! It's of enormous help to these entrepreneurs who otherwise would never get the out-of-country experience, were it not for you and PEP! I wish we could bring each of you to these work sites and to visit their service projects.

In gratitude,

Sharon Tennison
President